In the end we spent three days in the beautiful Amasra having a great time with our new friends. The day we left, we stopped quickly in a little coffee bar to check our emails and got a pleasant surprise: Tamer could come to meet us in Sinop, in two days! There were still 300km between us and Sinop, no chance to make that in 48h, panic!! 🙂 So we had to find an alternative way of transport and since the train network in Turkey is more or less inexistent we had to resort to our good old friend the “otobüs”.
Taking the bus with the bike is always a special experience in itself and although they ensure you in the ticket office “bisiklet problem yok” (= “bicycles no problem”, our most favorite Turkish sentence) you are then totally at the bus “captain’s” mercy who holds the sole dictatorship about his baggage compartment and sometimes tries to rip us off by charging extra money for the bikes. But sometimes a nice chat with the policemen brings some crucial extra points 🙂
Two days and four buses later we arrived late at Sinop and the expected 2km drive to the nearest camping turned into a 10km circumnavigation of the airport in the dark. But the next morning when we met Tamer, and Seyit invited us for breakfast in his luxury hotel with awesome sea view really compensated for the last two nerve-racking days.
The next two days we spend most of the daytime on the white beach playing Frisbee, letting the sun shine on our bellies, swimming in the crystal clear water, having the one or other beer and having a lot of fun with Tamer, sharing all crazy stories since we had met last time. Seyit, a high school friend of Tamer and the manager of the hotel, let us enjoy the beach and the comprehensive breakfast every day
(Gui gave his best to live up the Turkish expectations that “only a hungry guest is a good guest”), gave us a tour around the town and peninsula, though we couldn’t find the legendary lighthouse, and took good care of our well-being in the evening with delicious fish, which – according to a Turkish idiom – has to be enjoyed with lots of Raki in order to don’t make it cry 🙂
As a simple token of gratitude Gui even shared his “grandmother’s” quiche recipe with Seyit’s wife. Hope to see a picture of quiche made in Turkey soon! 🙂
After three absolutely great days it was time to say Goodbye to Tamer, Seyit and Gui’s wobbly kickstand and continue our way to Samsun. We made good progress on the completely flat road and only when the sun started to sink and clouds were gathering, we realized that we actually didn’t buy anything for dinner yet and the road that is built between the sea on one side and steep cliffs on the other side doesn’t allow any detours to nearby villages.
No reason for concern for us, our guardian angel already had a plan and when we stopped shortly after at a parking two truck drivers where already waving at us with a well-known gesture: cay! And although it was the first day of Ramadan they were preparing a little dinner for all of us in their perfectly equipped kitchen box mounted under the truck trailer, what luck!
On the following day we nearly reached Samsun after a long day on the road and when we stopped in a little village 20km before, we were really happy to find somebody who speaks English and could help us on our search for a camping spot. Although his family didn’t have any garden he was happy to offer us his neighbor’s garden who was not at home 🙂
And since it’s Ramadan, they insisted that we come over for dinner as well and so we found ourselves shortly after 8 with the whole family around the bountiful table while waiting for the TV lead-in to announce that it’s time for breaking the fasting for today.
The last 20km to Samsun we were following a bad but traffic free beach promenade road where Gui had his probably last swim in the black sea and after another 20km searching up and downhill in town (for an unknown reasons all cities in Turkey seem to be built on the highest hills in the proximity) we finally found the “otogar” (bus terminal) where after some hard negotiations we eventually found a bus driver that was willing to take us to Trabzon! Seven long and cramped hours of bus ride later we arrived under heavy rain late at night and were quite relieved when we tiredly sank into bed in our small hotel room.